Perfume de la Semana: A*Men Pure Coffee de Thierry Mugler

Si bien algunas fragancias de Thierry Mugler llevan ese estigma de las fragancias vanguardistas y descriptivas, que al poner en piel gustan o se odian a la primera, y el nombre "cafetero" de este perfume ya ponga a la defensiva la imaginación con la idea de una taza de café expreso embotellada o un elixir despertador para dormilones empedernidos, el aroma resultante de este perfume tiene bastante de clásico y masculino.


En la partida la fragancia muestra una nota de características poco comunes, un aroma a café bastante natural y que recuerda a granos de café recién molidos, sin tender al tostado extremo o al olor de una taza de café (tipo expreso o instantáneo). Ese es el primer golpe aromático, luego aparecen nuevas notas que se integran al café y le dan un estilo más cercano a un producto basado en café, como bombones rellenos o pasta de café al chocolate. Nuevas notas se desarrollan y toman más cuerpo en la fase media del perfume, donde aparecen aromas confitados que recuerdan al A*Men y que dejan al café en un segundo plano con un dejo aromático más seco. Se siente también vainilla dulce en torno al confitado, maderas tipo cedro algo tostadas y algo de ámbar también tostado, manteniendo este estilo durante toda esta fase. Ya hacia el final el cedro aromático aparece integrado al café y el ámbar dando la idea de un maderoso algo tostado, más algunas intervenciones de notas verdes al vetiver y que le dan un carácter de clásico a las maderas. Dentro del maderoso se siente también algo de hojas de tabaco y pachulí.

El aroma en piel toma cuerpo de perfume... no deja la idea de alguien que bebió café en exceso y comenzó a sudarlo. El café complementa las notas de madera y los dulces tostados, dando un aroma que bordea el de los clásicos ochenteros como el final del Quorum que era madera con tabaco. Es llamativo en estilo informal, con bastante frescura para usar en verano de diario y maderoso suave no denso apropiado para el invierno. Es elegante para uso de oficina, como un clásico elegante pero reinventado para recordar un estilo joven y moderno. Por ser poco común la nota de café en otros perfumes, destaca del promedio y es capaz de traspasar aromas ambientales al usar de noche, tanto formal como informal. En ocasiones románticas es masculino y levemente gourmand, pero es un aroma más personal que de pareja. Como rango de edad recomendado se siente con mejor potencial en un segmento entre los 25 y 45 años, destacando la idea de hombre maduro y formado pero joven.



Bonus Track: para quienes piensen que el aroma del café es uno sólo, les recomiendo a quienes tengan cerca un Starbucks (aprovecha Sabrina!) a darse una vuelta por ahí y pedir oler de los estantes sus ediciones internacionales (las bolsas tienen una válvula de control de aire... al apretarlas desprenden aroma): las versiones africanas huelen a frutas y flores, la asiática es terrosa y la italiana francesa es tostada quemada. En sabor, la línea colombiana Juan Valdez es una de las que prepara las mejores bebidas.

18 comentarios:

perfumes | 30 de septiembre de 2008, 5:36

Hola!
Es una excelente descripción de la fragancia, quería saber sobre su perdurabilidad, he tenido comentarios en los que me dicen que no es muy perdurable, pero no he tenido oportunidad de probarlo por mi misma.
Con respecto al bonus track: Es uno de los placeres de la vida, y la gente de Starbucks son muy atentos a la hora de asesorar sobre los distinos tipos de café, una experiencia muy recomendable.
Saludos,
Vivi

QuéOlorTiene | 30 de septiembre de 2008, 7:38

Hola Vivi... todo depende de la piel, pero en pruebas en papel duró más de 24 horas. El tono de café en la partida puede ser breve, pero el final maderoso tostado fija bastante bien.

En Starbucks me sorprendió la variedad aromática de los cafés... lo mencioné ya que la mayoría de la gente cree que el aroma a café es uno solo y que lo correcto es que huela a quemado.

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